Victory Cafe

Like a paint by numbers meal, it looked good but was only the passable copy of an original.

Eggs Florentine, at $9.99 is not bad, but I've had far better for less. Cooked textbook with all the right textures looking neat and presentable, just like the picture on the box of a frozen meal, unfortunately, along with its dull pasty innards. The potatoes were crispy, looking nicely brown with sprinkles of colorful bell pepper, but were glorified tater tots with neither fun nor taste. The canned beans were as a pleasant a surprise as a tooth cavity. I wondered why the waitress mentioned that the eggs came with home fries and asked if that was ok, then specifically repeated it again 30 seconds after, when I placed my order. Yet no mention of the beans--which I would think people might more likely object to. The hollandaise sauce was, well it just wasn't hollandaise, despite appearances. Actually, it tasted like instant Knorr cream of potato soup.

It was just "ok". For the same price you could get something much better, especially with the plethora of choices in the Bloor Annex neighborhood alone. At least the Benny, costing the same, had thick, glistening slices of peameal bacon. Doesn't frozen spinach still cost a dollar a pound at the grocery store? But, I suppose a sunny day, sitting on the patio with super smiley service can compensate for a sub-par meal.

Victory Cafe Famous Pub & Eatery
address: 581 Markham St.
number: 416-516-5787
website: www.victorycafe.ca

Jamie Kennedy Wine Bar

It was a special occasion and this was a befitting setting. Our table of 16 had gathered for a celebratory 30th, seated at a very large and handsome communal table on yet another Sunday afternoon, in anticipation of a great meal. Over the years, I have in a way followed Jamie Kennedy's career - at least reported in the Toronto Star - way before the food network or the linkage of celebrity + chef. So it was with much excitement that I would finally dine at one of his establishments, not to mention the birthday, and brunch of course.

The brunch price fixe menu is $20 with a choice of two dishes. It is a meal that has been turning more highbrow these days, with our brightest local stars extending that trend of making the casual into the sublime (remember $50 hamburgers?). But most of us are adamantly clinging to our low rise skinny jeans as we chow down our $10 diner eggs, still as skeptical of spending our week's grocery money on one mid-day meal as we are of relinquishing tapered for high-wasted wide-legs. As one of our table commented, "I don't even understand this menu". I however, was happy to explain what a confit or even what a ragout meant (hint the spaghetti sauce); just as much as I took this dining experience for what it was, a special once in a while treat.

And treat it was! Lamenting my addiction to fries with mayo, I felt not a whit of guilt as I plunged hot, crispy golden fries into lemony garlicky homemade mayonnaise. (Our guest of honour informed me later that JK is famous for his fries - Yukon Frites $5). The bread plate, was meh - skip it. It might have been homemade, but it was just mostly plain white raisin bread with blah jam. I would think for $5 a plate, they could afford to give tables a demi-baguette from Ace Bakery instead and still profit nicely. Service was great - friendly, informative, and well paced - impressive as we were a large group. They even offered to plate the chocolate ganache cake one of our party brought with berries (but at $3 a pop).

The nice thing about JK Wine Bar is the post tapas sense of sharing. Yes the artfully presented dishes are small, but in a big group setting, at least you get to taste a lot.

The smoked salmon blinis looked and tasted wow: intense salmon fresh flavour as deep as its coral flesh, punctuated with fresh herb salad, pickled onion, and airy creme fraiche with its spongy, nutty, buckwheat base.

I also had bites of the chorizo side (meaty and fried crisp), the tender and saucy pulled pork, and the luscious melt in your mouth pain perdu.

Surprisingly, the duck confit salad (with frisee and poached organic egg) wasn't that special. The bitterness of the green had no point. The meat was more leathery than crisp (although apparently duck would make a good jerky), and the egg could've just as well been a no show. Actually, most of us at the table thought it was goat's cheese at first, which I think could have been a better ingredient. Mmm... if it was warm goat's cheese over the frisee with crisp skin and robust meat...

We couldn't resist peeking at the dinner menu. With its promise of artisan cheeses (also available at brunch), oysters, and other goodies, I immediately tried to think of of what other occasions were coming up.

It will probably take a few more trips before I agree with one comment made by someone, who, after offering JK wb as a recommendation and having the querier respond that he'd been there. "Ah, then it's ruined anywhere else." But, definitely, I would say as the b-day girl opined, "They know what they are doing."

Jamie Kennedy Wine Bar
address: 9 Church Street
number: 416-362-5586
website: jkkitchens.com

Edward Levesque's Kitchen

photo from TorontoLife.com review of Edward Levesque's Kitchen

It was a good thing we'd gone before the mixed reviews on chowhound.com. which ranged from terrible food and crummy service to it's a favorite, I love it!

ELK had been the other option at my "going away" brunch when we'd chosen Le Petite Dejeuner due to it's closer proximity. However, as I'm moving into Leslieville, it seemed a good place to spend a relaxed Sunday afternoon.

It was not until after we'd left that the others in my party admitted they were pleasantly surprised that the exterior was in no way indicative of the charming interior - small but spacious, bright like a buttercup, with real linens - and immediate seating. Calling earlier, D was told that they don't take brunch reservations but it wasn't too busy so it wouldn't be a problem getting a table. Upon arrival, we snagged the last empty table, thankfully, big enough for four.

While we perused the small printed menus, quality coffee came swift and hot. Impressive was the "daily" selection coupled with the brunch only options. It was difficult to just pick one because everything looked excellent. There seemed to be one of my favorite ingredients in each selection. Finally, since it was brunch, I needed to have poached eggs, so I opted for the version atop chipotle corn bread with sausage and home fries. Although a deceptively small portion, it was very rich and filling. And exactly what I wanted. Never before have I had more perfectly poached eggs, fluffy white giving way to an almost caramel thick yolk. Its smoothness oozed nicely into the buttery, softly sweet smoky corn bread that crumbled into the salty spice of the chorizo sausage - a flawless foil. The potatoes tasted as good as they looked; homey and handsomely brown and uniform, tender and with a nicely seasoned crisp shell. I couldn't finish it all without help (maybe because I'd scarfed down a whole order of fresh baguette and butter).

I didn't try two of the parties selections, the tantalizingly sounding lamb-burger with olive spread, or the omelet with smoked fish and salad, but both orders were polished off with aplomb. I did however, have a bite of the banana french toast, which was nicely springy, dense, with the banana a fragrant highlight to the silky custard infused bread.

During the whole meal, I raved and couldn't wait to be a local scenester, stopping by once a week to try to the falafel, or dinner mains, or well, everything.

On our way out, Edward had us twittering at a quip, feeling for a moment that we had really been his guests.

Lunches are under $10, dinners under $30, not including drink, taxes, or tip.

Edward Levesque's Kitchen
Address: 1290 Queen Street East
Phone: 416-465-3600
Lunch: W-F 11am-3pm
Dinner: TUES-SAT 6pm-10pm, SUN from 5:30pm
Brunch: SAT-SUN 9am-3pm
website: www.edwardlevesques.ca